Ten yearsOf the sameFour routes

We started with one loop through Rajasthan and four women who wanted to see it without being managed. The company is still that: a small desk in Jaipur, a short list of routes, and the stubborn habit of checking everything ourselves.

38 routes6 to 12 womenPrivate departures year round

Days that end in daylight

Every route is built backwards from sunset. You arrive while it is still light, settle, and walk out again before dark, instead of landing at midnight after a six-hour transfer.

Stays we sleep in first

Nothing goes on a route until one of us has booked it, paid for it and slept in it, in the month you would travel. It comes off the list the season it slips. Six to twelve women

Six to twelve women

Groups stay small enough to change their mind: a market you like can eat the afternoon and the driver simply waits.

Drivers we have known for years

The same drivers, season after season, and women guides wherever they exist. The person who wrote your itinerary is the person who answers when a train is late.

One loop, badly

The first trip was a favour: a friend wanted Rajasthan and could not find an operator who treated her as a traveller rather than a liability. We booked it ourselves and got it wrong: three cities in four days, a driver who quoted twice, a hotel that put four women in a service corridor. We wrote all of it down. That page of complaints is still the brief.

What we changed

Routes are now built backwards from sunset, so you arrive while it is light and walk out again before dark. Nothing goes on a route until one of us has slept in it, in the month you would travel, and it comes off the list the season it slips. Groups stay between six and twelve, small enough that an afternoon can be spent in one market while the driver waits.

What we will not do

We do not sell thirty-eight countries. We do not run a route we have not driven this year, we do not pad a day to fill a brochure, and we do not put a group somewhere we would not send our own sisters after dark. When a route stops being worth the flight we retire it, and say so.